9/6/2007

Salaam Aleikum Everyone:

It's been a while since I've written, mainly because I don't have much to tell. But perhaps the things that have become rather routine to me are still strange and interesting for you all in America. So let's see...I got invited to go walking down to some shops and restaurants that are located just outside DQ (Diplomatic Quarters, where I live). There's a big clock tower that tells the temperature in the DQ, so I had the displeasure of learning that we were walking in 108 degree weather. Mind you, this was at night.

It took us a little over an hour to get to the shops, and we first went to a restaurant. We went inside to order, but we could not eat inside because we're women. Some restaurants have an area that is blocked off by walls for women and families, but many don't, and because of strict segregation laws, this means if you're fortunate enough to be served, you're going to have to eat your food elsewhere. For us that meant at a table outside. But hey, who would want to eat in an air-conditioned restaurant when you can eat at a dusty (there may be lots of fancy buildings, but let's not forget we're still surrounded by sand that covers everything outside) table outside and enjoy the balmy weather? Haha. But the food was great and very cheap: for roughly $2.50 US Dollars I got a plate of hummus with two huge, fresh, warm pieces of bread, a "cheese pie" (cheese wrapped in this delicious bread and baked), and 12 oz. of fresh strawberry juice!

Shortly after we ordered our food it was prayer time, which means that all shops, restaurants, etc. must close. They reopen roughly half an hour to an hour later, after the workers have returned from the mosque. Now, if you're thinking this doesn't sound like much of an inconvenience, let me remind you that Muslims have FIVE prayer times every day. Actually, the whole closing of the shops thing doesn't bother me too much, although it really irritates some of the other teachers.

We all have a different thing that eats away at us. For one teacher, it's the fact that she can't drive (women aren't allowed to drive in this country); see, that doesn't bother me because even if women were allowed to drive, I wouldn't! People drive like maniacs here! I thought driving in Chicago was bad, but Riyadh makes Chicago seem like, well, driving in Florence, Montana! Saudi Arabia has one of the highest rates for car accidents and fatalities in car accidents. So, for those of you worried that my life was in danger because of terrorist activities, not to fear! If something is going to take my life here, it will be a car crash! So yeah, it doesn't really bother me that I can't drive here because I wouldn't anyway.

Believe it or not, even wearing the abaaya has ceased to really bother me. I mean, it bothers me a little when it's hot outside, but it's nice to go out and not be judged by my body. Women don't have that luxury in America.

What bothers me is the segregation. Why can't I eat in the restaurant? Why must I enter the auditorium from the back door? Why do all universities that have a women's section have to start at a different time just to ensure there's no mingling of the sexes? And why, oh WHY, do men have to be the ones working at the lingerie stores?? Ok, that actually has little to do with segregation and more to do with the fact that women are only allowed to hold certain jobs, and retail jobs are not included in that short (but growing) list. Imagine, ladies, walking into Victoria's Secret and having to ask a man if he has this bra in this size, hearing him discuss the difference between the Balconette bra and the new Curves bra, etc. Or, imagine a situation Budoor, my Saudi friend, found herself in: Budoor is quite slender, but also quite busty. She went into the store and told the man she needed a 36C bra. He told her, "Oh no, you can't be a 36C. Here, get this bra. I'm sure you'll find it to be much more comfortable." She tried to argue but he kept insisting HE knew her size (although she's wearing an abaaya) better than she did, so finally she said "Haram!" (which is about the worst thing you can say. It means you're doing something shameful and not permitted in Islam) "I will never come to this store again!"

I went to the mall today, and I still can't get used to it! You know, in the US, it's not uncommon to see a gay guy selling cosmetics. Here, of course, homosexuality is super-HARAM, but since women can't work in retail, you see all these manly men talking to women whose faces are completely covered by black material about makeup. I saw one man motioning how you apply some foundation and use some powder he was trying to sell. The figure cloaked in black is nodding, nodding, and contemplating if she wants to buy this expensive powder to use on the face that only her family sees. Strange, huh? It seems odd that women are so concerned with their appearance here. But I saw very racy clothes for sale, and all the expensive name-brand make-ups that we have in the states are here too. I saw one woman (apparently quite liberal--she didn't have her eyes covered with a black scarf, only the rest of her face) asking the male sales clerk how you wear this strange-looking piece of flimsy orange material with what looked like a small brown leather belt attached to it. For the record, I follow the rule: If you can't figure out how you wear it, you probably shouldn't buy it. So the man held it up on himself--the leather belt thing goes around your neck and holds up the flimsy, translucent orange fabric, which is partially covered by a layer of translucent, floral-patterned fabric. It looks kind of like a blind man sewed it together, which is why the two layers of fabric don't seem to be lined up in any sort of fashion. Also, there were random gold chains dangling from the top. I mean, why not? And all this, for only 2000 Riyals! But hey, that's what, like $500 US dollars, so it's quite a steal. Kate, now you know what you're getting for Christmas!

Ok, well, that's all for now. Like a typical Saudi woman, I have nothing to talk about but shopping. Saudi Arabia does have a few notable things in common with the US, like the fact that it's a very consumer-based society. There are huge malls everywhere, and a fine assortment of expensive name-brand clothing in all of them. My Saudi friend Budoor tosses around these names like they're nothing: D&G, Fendi, Prada, etc. I won't even say them out loud because I'm afraid they'll send me a bill! Thou shalt not use Armani's name in vain! There's a LOT of money to be spent in Saudi Arabia, and the Saudi women have taken it upon themselves to see that it gets spent in great quantities! When my friend and I were standing outside the mall, we saw a man dropping off his wife at the mall. I commented, "He doesn't want to have to go shopping with her! I guess some things are universal!" Yep.

Salaam,

Lizz